Fair they said. Unfair I would say, 1 to 2 feet, choppy, blown out, so bad in fact no other surfers were in the water, but I took my 9'6'' old school dinged up single fin Gordon and Smith out of the garage, cleaned off the dog hair and old wax, used the new soft roof rack I had bought for the purpose, drove to 34th St. in Newport Beach, forgot to bring a towel, waxed up my board, and went into the water.
I fell off the board on the few small waves that I caught as I struggled to my knees, let alone my feet, but hey I was back in the water on my board. I didn't break or twist or bruise anything or anyone.
Gnarly.
100% points! Surfin' USA!
ReplyDeleteAwesome, Dr. Koffman! :)
ReplyDelete