Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Do I get points for trying? Surfing USA

Home from Doheny, and Surfline said local conditions were fair. Why wait? Platelets were OK on Friday, the water is warm for SoCal, about 69 F, and the beach is 10 minutes away.

Fair they said. Unfair I would say, 1 to 2 feet, choppy, blown out, so bad in fact no other surfers were in the water, but I took my 9'6'' old school dinged up single fin Gordon and Smith out of the garage, cleaned off the dog hair and old wax, used the new soft roof rack I had bought for the purpose, drove to 34th St. in Newport Beach, forgot to bring a towel, waxed up my board, and went into the water.

I fell off the board on the few small waves that I caught as I struggled to my knees, let alone my feet, but hey I was back in the water on my board. I didn't break or twist or bruise anything or anyone.

Gnarly.

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3 Comments:

Blogger Alison said...

100% points! Surfin' USA!

September 10, 2009 at 7:44 AM  
Blogger Brenda Corderman MFT said...

Awesome, Dr. Koffman! :)

September 10, 2009 at 10:17 AM  
Blogger Dan Anderson said...

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October 29, 2017 at 10:40 PM  

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