Do I get points for trying? Surfing USA

Home from Doheny, and Surfline said local conditions were fair. Why wait? Platelets were OK on Friday, the water is warm for SoCal, about 69 F, and the beach is 10 minutes away.

Fair they said. Unfair I would say, 1 to 2 feet, choppy, blown out, so bad in fact no other surfers were in the water, but I took my 9'6'' old school dinged up single fin Gordon and Smith out of the garage, cleaned off the dog hair and old wax, used the new soft roof rack I had bought for the purpose, drove to 34th St. in Newport Beach, forgot to bring a towel, waxed up my board, and went into the water.

I fell off the board on the few small waves that I caught as I struggled to my knees, let alone my feet, but hey I was back in the water on my board. I didn't break or twist or bruise anything or anyone.

Gnarly.

The Healing Water of the Pacific at Crystal Cove

I have been swimming and body surfing and boogie boarding in the Pacific for the first time in four years.

The first time since my CLL diagnosis that I stepped into the salt water. Only the second time swimming in all those four years (the first was just a few weeks ago in the swimming hole north of Santa Barbara). I avoid public swimming pools with their toxic mix of chlorine and bacteria.

After four years, my platelets are high enough, my spleen is long gone so no risk of rupture, my energy is climbing, and my immunity is at least partially boosted by my recent IVIG. So unless I run into a great white, or get in over my head with murderous waves, I am good to go.

The waves weren't bad, the water was warm enough if you kept moving, and I had several narly rides.

It was wonderful. Cleansing. Healing. And very much a rush.

No cancer clone has a chance against that kind of primitive tidal energy.

Next I get the  old  dinged up longboard out and do some real surfing.

Won't be able to keep me out of the water now.